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和訳お願いします

In the 1960s and 1970s, ethnic women were much more visible in fashion. That was a time of exuberance and change; the time of the Black Power movement, the mantra “black is beautiful”, Roberta Flack singing Be Real Black for Me. This mood coutinued into the 1980s, with models such as Iman, Pat Cleveland and the young Campbell splashed everywhere. Fashionistas will admit that it is now extremely rare to see a black girl on a magazine cover, and that there were almost no ethnic girls at the catwalk shows in Paris, Milan and New York in February. One or two Chinese models made it, but otherwise, the Aryan look dominated. The question is: why? The standard answer is that it all comes down to money. Beauty is what sell---the magazine, the label, the skincare and the bag. Editors and managers say that, however much they want to use ethnic girls, putting one on the cover of a glossy magazine will depress sales. If ethnic women brought in big profits, nobody in the industry would be in the slightest bit interested in their skin tones or their racial type. Rightly or wrongly, though women from ethnic minorities are considered a bad commercial bet. As one insider said to me regretfully:“Fashion is aspirational, magazines are aspirational and, to aspire, you need to be able to identify with someone---at least a little. And readers don't identify with ethnic women. They din't see them as aspirational.” So,neither the editors nor the advertisers will take any risks on them. This is particularly true in new markets---marketing aimed at the new mega-rich consumers in China and Russia cannot afford to ignore the fact that those countries are more racist than the west. I'm sceptial about this view. If the assumption that ethnic beauty is unprofitable is right, you would expect advertisers to be even more reluctant to use ethnic models than magazine editors. Editors can afford to take a few risks, perhaps, as fashion leaders, whereas advertisers are much more reactionary, driven by the pursuit of profit. Yet in my snapshot of April magazines, is was the advertisers who were using more ethnic girls. In all those kilograms of pases, there were only four black women in editorial fashion shoots, and 10 Asian women, whereas there were 71 black women and 48 Asian in advertisements. Four black women in editorials against 71 in advertisements is a striking contrast. It suggest that, in reality, ethnic beauty has greater commercial value than the fashion mavens assume, and that the market has latched onto is first. As Hilary Riva, chief executive of the British Fashion Council, points out: “It is important that we see aspirational imagines of all type of women in the media. One of the biggest UK ad campaigns, for M&S, has done just that.” Perhaps the punters are a bit less racist than the pundits. This is only speculation, but it is hard to find much else about this extremely awkward question. British Vogue refuses point black to comment, and most people I contacted preferred to talk off the record. One suggestion is that the absence, particularly of black girls with African features, has to do with the tiny minority of people who make the fashion weather: the arbiters of fashion. These are the top casting agents and designers who decide whom to send on photoshoots and the catwalks, and many of them are gay white men. I'm told they really don't like black women. again, the question is, why? Or, rather, why not? As ever, if it's not something to do with money, it is probablysomething to do with sex. よろしくお願いします。

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1960年代と1970年代に、人種の女性は、流行においてはるかにより目に見えました。それは豊富と変更の時間でした;ブラックパワー移動の時間、マントラ「黒は美しい」、ロバータ・フラックの歌唱、私のための実際の黒です。アイマン、パット・クリーヴランドおよび若いキャンベルのようなモデルと共に1980年代へcoutinuedされたこのムードは、どこでもはねました。Fashionistasは、それが雑誌カバー上の黒人の少女に会うのに今非常にまれであることを認めるでしょう。そして、ほとんど人種の少女が狭い通路にいなかったことは2月にパリ、ミラノおよびニューヨークで示します。中国の1つあるいは2つのモデルはそれを作りました。しかし、そうでなければ、インドヨーロッパ語の外観は支配しました。質問は次のとおりです:なぜ?標準の答えは、それがすべて金銭に下へ来るということです。美は売るものです --- マガジン、ラベル、スキンケアおよびバッグ。しかしながら、エディターとマネージャーは非常にそう言います、彼らはグラビア誌のカバーの上に1つ置いて、人種の少女を使用したい、販売を低下させるでしょう。もし人種の女性が大もうけをもたらせば、産業での誰も、それらの皮膚調子あるいはそれらの人種のタイプに興味を持っている最も少しのビットでいないでしょう。しかしながら、正しくあるいは誤って、少数民族からの女性は悪い商用賭けと考えられます。1人のインサイダーが私に残念そうに言ったように」:流行は向上心があります、マガジンは向上心があります、また、熱望するために、誰かを一体視することができる必要があります---少なくとも少し。また、読者は人種の女性を一体視しません。それら、din't、それらを向上心があると見なす。」したがって、エディターも広告主もそれらの上で危険を冒さないでしょう。これは、新市場において特に真実です --- 中国とロシアで新しい巨大裕福な消費者に向けたマーケティングは、それらの国々が西より人種差別主義であるという事実を無視する余裕がありません。私はこの視界に関してsceptialです。人種の美が無益であるという仮定が正しければ、広告主が雑誌編集者より人種のモデルをさらに使用したくないことを期待するでしょう。エディターは、ファッション・リーダーとして、少数の危険を恐らく冒す余裕があります。しかし、利潤追求によって運転されて、広告主ははるかにより反動的です。4月のマガジンの私のスナップ写真の中でまだ、である、より多くの人種の少女を使用していた広告主でした。パセのそれらのすべてのキログラムで、編集の方法で4人の黒人女性だけがいました、放つ、そして10人のアジアの女性、71人の黒人女性および48がいましたが、広告でアジア。広告の71に対する社説の4人の黒人女性、著しい差異です。それ、実際には、人種の美が流行達人が仮定するより大きな商品価値を持っており、市場が掛けがねで締まったことを示唆する、の上に、1位です。ヒラリー・リーヴァ(英国のファッション会議の最高経営責任者)が次のように指摘するように:「私たちが向上心のあって見ることは重要です、メディアのすべてのタイプの女性に想像します。最も大きな英国広告キャンペーンのうちの1つは、M&Sに対して、単にそれをしました。」恐らく、賭博者は専門家ほど少し人種差別主義ではありません。これは単なる推測です。しかし、この非常に厄介な質問に関してほかに多くを見つけるのは難しい。英国の流行はポイントを拒絶します、コメントする黒、および私が非公式に話すと好まれて連絡をとったほとんどの人々。特にアフリカの特徴を持った黒人の少女に、流行天候を作る人々の小さな少数と欠如が関係するという1つの暗示が次のとおりです:流行の仲裁者。これらは、photoshootsと狭い通路の上で誰を派遣するか決定する、トップのキャスティング・エージェントおよびデザイナーです。そして、それらのうちの多数はゲイの白人の男性です。私は伝えられます、彼らは本当に黒人女性が好きではありません。再び、質問はそうです、なぜ?あるいは、やや、なぜ駄目ですか。同じように常に、それが金銭ですることでない場合、それは性別で行うことをprobablysomethingしています。

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